December- In the Flower Garden

Plant-Houses.

Orchid Houses The dull and foggy weather prevalent at this season of the year is very troublesome to the cultivator of Orchids, particularly in low-lying districts where fogs are the usual cpndition. In such places very little damping down of the houses must be practised unless a considerable amount of fire-heat is used to keep up the desired temperature. In the latter case, instead of damping the paths and stages, moisten well the surface round the hot-water pipes two or three times daily, according to the state of the external atmosphere.

Most of the Cattleyas and Laelias will now be dormant, and a damping down of the houses in which they are situated three or four times a week will be sufficient. In the intermediate section many plants will require moisture to keep them in a healthy flourishing condition. Here the cultivator must again be guided by external influences. In some localities, especially on elevated ground in exposed situations, where the soil is naturally dry, there is far less humidity in the atmosphere. Where such is the case it is almost impossible to avoid aridity, especially if the surface within the houses is non-porous. For Odontoglossums we advocate the use of tanks running underneath the stages the whole length of the structures, and if the hot-water pipes are placed side by side over these there is no surface to dry. It is far better to reduce the temperature of the houses two or three degrees than to have a parching heat. If canvas were fixed on rollers so that it could be let down in severe weather the difference to the inside temperature would be very great. With an equal amount of artificial heating the house would be at least ten degrees warmer. The great drawback to such coverings, however, is that they often get frozen to the rafters and cannot be rolled up till it has thawed.

Hothouse.-Where much indoor decoration has to be done a batch of Caladiums should be grown on for the purpose, as no better decorative plants can be found than some of the dwarf varieties.

Continue to propagate Coleus, Acalyphas, and other plants of that class which are easy to cultivate to supply plants for decorating. December is not a month when we may expect to see many hothouse plants in flower; still, there should be a quantity of the winter-flowering section of Begonias in bloom. These, together with such things as Euphorbia jacquiniceflora, Epiphyllums, Rondeletias, Scutellaria, Thyrsacanthus rutilans, Sericographis, &c, will make a brilliant show, intermixed with other fine-foliaged plants. Most of the plants in this department will now be at rest, therefore the temperature of the houses should be kept as low as is safe, so that the plants may not be unduly excited too early. Potting material of all kinds should be brought under cover, and, if possible, put into a temperature quite as high as that in which the plants are growing, in order that it may be ready for use when required.

Greenhouse and Conservatory One of the greatest obstacles with which a gardener has to contend in the case of Conservatories adjoining a dwelling-house is the frequent opening and shutting of doors at this period of the year, where there is a passage through from one to the other. Too much care cannot be exercised in this case when the air externally is a number of degrees below that of the house. Plants suffer more from a sudden draught and cutting winds than from a persistent low temperature. It is far preferable to have a porch and double doors to such places in order that the outer doors may be closed before the inner are opened. These structures should also have sufficient hot-water pipes to keep them at the requisite temperature without the necessity of heating them to such an extent as to cause a drying atmosphere. Nothing is more unpleasant than the smell of over-heated pipes. They have also a very injurious effect on the plants. Ventilate cautiously when frosty winds are prevalent, and see that the plants are not subjected to cold draughts.

Forcing House. - Continue to introduce plants into heat as may be necessary to keep up a succession of bloom. It is not advisable, however, to take them from a cold frame or pit and to place them in a strong heat all at once, as this process has often a tendency to cause the buds to fall. Such plants are best brought on steadily, and for this reason require a moderate heat to commence with. Hyacinths, Tulips, and Narcissus started now will bloom far better than those introduced into heat last month. Great care must be used in hardening all such plants before they are taken to the Conservatory or Greenhouse.

Pits And Frames.

Violets will now require particular attention. If the weather be severe enough to prevent the removal of the lights for any length of time, take advantage of the first favourable opportunity to give air, or the buds will damp off. No good is obtained by uncovering frames when the temperature in the open is several degrees below freezing-point, as that inside these structures will also be abnormally low. Therefore unless some of the plants are showing flower, no harm will be done to them if they are not uncovered for a month, or so long as the frost lasts. As soon, however, as a thaw occurs, the covering should be removed and air gradually admitted till the plants are inured to the outside temperature. Be careful in watering any inmates of pits and frames, giving sufficient only to prevent flagging. Some of the more hardy occupants, such as border Carnations, Brompton and other Stocks. Hollyhocks, Violas, &c, will take no harm if exposed to one or two degrees of frost. Better to be so exposed than to be coddled.

Flower-Garden And Pleasure Ground.

Whenever the weather remains open push on with the planting of all kinds of deciduous trees and shrubs, as the sooner they are planted the better. Look over flower-beds that were planted last month, and pick up leaves and other litter that may have got lodged there by the wind. Rake out leaves from amongst shrubs and dig over the borders, so that they may present a tidy and well-kept appearance. Should the weather be frosty, wheel on manure and turn over any refuse heaps, in order that the contents may be thoroughly decomposed before wheeling it on to the ground. Examine drains and see that no gravel has been washed into them by heavy rain. Clean out cesspools and water tanks that have become stagnant, so that the latter may get filled again before spring. Re-gravel walks where necessary, and turn others that have become green or mossy. Any alterations needed in the way of relaying turf should be proceeded with during mild weather, so that the ground may be settled down by spring. Prune and train creepers to walls and fences. Protect half-hardy plants from frost, and in bad weather make a sufficient quantity of labels to name plants as they are planted out.

November- In the Flower Garden

Plant-Houses.

Orchid Houses.-During the dull days of November, all the inmates of these erections will need special care. Cattleyas that have matured their growth will now be in a dormant state, and those which have not yet attained full development should be carefully watered and have all the light obtainable. C. labiata will now be flowering, and must on this account be carefully attended to, both with regard to water supply and destruction of insect pests. Lcelia albida, L. anceps, L. autumnalis, and others will now be displaying their flower-spikes. It is not well to keep them too much on the dry side till the flowers are expanded, or they will be small. The atmosphere of the house in which they flower should, however, be fairly dry, or the flowers will be spotted. Cmlogyne cristata that are pushing up their sheaths must have special care, as this is a critical time with them, many of them turning black if too cold or too moist. A temperature of from 50° to 55° at night suits them well. Maxillaria pida, Masdeval-lia tovarensis, Fkione Wallichiana, and P. humilis, with some others, will be in flower, and they, combined with Cypripediums, Oneidiums, and JSygopetalums, will make a good display. Many of the Odontoglossum family will be in vigorous growth, and some will be sending up their flower-spikes. These should not be neglected, for at this season of the year, particularly if the weather be mild and wet, snails creep into the houses in numbers and soon devour the young tender spikes. Introduce into heat batches of Dendrobiums as soon as the flower-buds are sufficiently developed, so that they may be had in bloom early in the new year. The old Phaius grandifolius is another useful orchid for cutting, and if a good batch of this is grown, a succession oof flowers may be obtained by introducing the plants into heat at various periods.

Hothouse.-Much diligence must be exercised in order to entirely free the plants from all insect pests, during this and the ensuing month. Where it has not already been done, well wash the woodwork and all interior fittings of the houses. Change the shingle or whatever material the stages are covered with, or wash it in boiling water, and, having done this, clean all plants before they are rearranged. Winter-flowering Begonias should have liberal treatment, as should also those kept in small pots for decorative purposes. All bulbs, such as Gloxinias, Caladiums, Gesneras, &c, will now be at rest, but a small collection of C. argyrites may be started for early use. Pot on Ferns, Palms, and Asparagus, and other plants for foliage as they need it, in order that there may be plenty when wanted for ornamentation.

Forcing House.-Towards the end of the month many of the early-flowering shrubs anc Roses, that were potted up with the view of having them early in flower, may be introduced into leaf. They should be started in a low temperature (from 50° to 55° Fair.), and as the buds swell, the heat may be increased, providing the weather is mild enough to admit of free venti-ation. Such shrubs as Spiraea confusa, Thun-jergia, Prunus sinensis flore pleno, Lilacs, Deutzias, Clematis, Azaleas, Philadelphus, Viburnums, Rhododendrons, and Roses, all force admirably if the process is begun in gentle heat. To these may be added such plants as Spiraea, Dielytra, Polygonatum (Solomon's Seal), Lily of the Valley, &c. Some of the most forward bulbs may also be introduced, and these, together with Callas and other winter-flowering plants, will make a very varied display about Christmas.

Greenhouse and Conservatory: Very few flowers will now be found out of doors, so that more time and pains must be given to making these houses gay. There should be very little difficulty in achieving this, provided the instructions previously given have been carried out. Chrysanthemums, Abutilons, Chinese Primulas, Pelargoniums, Bpiphyllums, Habrothamnus, Daphne, Early Roman Hyacinths, Narcissi, Ericas, Salvias, Cyclamens, Tuberoses that have been grown in frames during summer, and other winter - flowering plants, should now be at their best, and if they are effectively arranged will be very pleasing. Summer-flowering Heaths and New Holland plants should be kept as cool as possible. Ventilate freely whenever the weather permits, and if any mildew appears, at once dust the parts affected with flour of sulphur. Water sparingly when the weather is dull, and if possible do so in the morning, so that the damp may evaporate before night.

Pits And Frames.

These will now be occupied to the fullest extent of their capabilities. Helleborus niger (Christmas Rose) should be potted or planted in them, if it is to provide a good supply of flowers about Christmas. In moving these plants get them up with as much soil as possible as they do not like their roots disturbed. Bou-vardias, to succeed those already in flower, should have weak supplies of manure-water. Cinerarias, whose flower-spikes are getting forward, and others that have filled the pots with roots, will need assistance in the same manner. Violets will require a free circulation of air on all suitable occasions.

Bulbs such as Freesias, Alliums,Lilium Harrisii, Tritonias, Tulips, Crocuses, &c, should have all the air possible to induce sturdy growth. Stake Mignonette that is coming into flower, and water with weak liquid manure. Auriculas must be watered carefully, but on no account be allowed to become dry. Material of some non-conducting kind should be put round the outside of wooden frames to exclude frost. Few things are more suitable for this purpose than fresh leaves. If these be placed to the depth of a foot, round the outsides, it will take a very severe frost to penetrate to the frame. Calceolarias and other half-hardy plants should have the lights kept off whenever there is fine weather.

Flower-Garden And Pleasure Ground.

Finish planting all kinds of bulbs that are intended for spring flowering, not forgetting Eanunculuses, Anemones, Hyacinthus candicans, Ixias, Sparaxis, &c. The ground should be covered subsequently with some rough litter to exclude frost. Gladiolus bulbs should be lifted and stored away safe from frost. Sweep lawns and collect leaves for making hot-beds and protecting half-hardy plants from the cold. Push forward the planting of all kinds of trees and shrubs while the weather keeps mild, and before the temperature of the soil is reduced so considerably as to check root action. Any alterations needed in the pleasure ground or shrubberies should now be undertaken, in order that the ground may get settled down again before spring. Plant Roses and protect them from the effects of severe frost by surrounding them with bracken or other rough litter. Lift and protect similarly any half-hardy herbaceous plants or shrubs before severe weather sets in. These include Euony-mus, Veronicas, Myrtles, Osmanthus, Desfon-tanea, Eurya, &c. Dig shrubbery borders and make the whole tidy before frost causes such work to be abandoned in an unfinished condition.

October- In the Flower Garden

Plant-Houses.

Orchid Houses.-As the sun is on the wane, and the outside temperature becomes daily cooler, greater care must be exercised in supplying water to most of the inmates of these houses. A great number of Cattleyas will be at rest, and those which have not yet completed their growth will not, owing to the reduced temperature, require so much water as those growing during the height of summer. All Dendrobes which have made their year's growth should have a drier temperature, but such kinds as densiflorum, Farmeri, thyrsiflorum, Hillii, and others with persistent foliage should not be subjected to a lower temperature than 50° to 55° Fahr.; while such as Wardianum, Findlayanum, nobile, Ainsworthii, and other members of that section may be wintered in a house whose atmosphere sometimes falls as low as 45° Fahr. There are not many Orchids in flower in October, but Dendrobium Phalcenopsis, D. P. Schroederianum, and a few more will be developing their flower-spikes, and will require special attention. Vanda Amesiana, Omidium tignrmm, and some few others will still be in bloom. Zygopetalums should be examined for thrips, which are very fond of the flower-buds that will shortly be expanding. Calanthes must be watered sparingly, and the air of the house in which they are growing should be kept rather dry. The present is a favourable opportunity for giving the Orchid houses a thorough wash down before winter, as many of the Dendrobes and other species are dormant in cooler houses. Remove all shingle, gravel, shell, or whatever the stages may be covered with, and wash it in boiling water. This process will destroy any insects which may be lurking in it, and also remove any soil which may have been washed out from the pots.

The temperature of the East Indian houses may be reduced to 65° at night, with a proportionate reduction in the daytime. That of the intermediate house should be 60°, and the cool house 50° to 55°, according to the weather. With this reduction of heat there should be a corresponding diminution in the amount of moisture.

Hothouse. - Cuttings of Croton and other hard-wooded, fine-foliaged plants may still be propagated where a good deal of heat is available. Those rooted now will make nice plants for early spring use. Towards the end of the month cut back Allamandas to within three or four eyes of the preceding year's growth. We do not recommend drying off, but rather the reverse. Various other stove climbers and deciduous plants should now be gradually ripened off, so that they may have a rest for the following two months. Hothouse plants in flower are not numerous. There are, however, a few with brightly-coloured flowers which will be expanding their blooms, including Poinsettias, Plumbagos, and Lasiandras. These should be afforded a little more heat, and fully exposed to sunlight. As the days decline the heat of these houses should be gradually lessened to 65° by night, with a rise of 10° or 15° by day, under sun-heat. The atmosphere should also be drier, but on no account should it be parched.

Greenhouse and Conservatory.-Any hard-wooded plants "which still remain out-of-doors should be housed early in the month. Heaths, Epacris, and other plants of similar nature should be put where there is a free circulation of air whenever the state of the weather permits. Water should be given sparingly, according to the variations of weather, and on fine mornings if possible, to avoid stagnation of the atmosphere. All Chrysanthemums should be housed. The most forward varieties must occupy a space by themselves, and when in bloom should be removed to the conservatory. Pelargoniums of the Zonal type that were prepared for autumn flowering will now be fully in flower, and should have a somewhat dry atmosphere with a temperature of from 55° to 60°, and those which are coming into bloom may have similar treatment. Bouvardias now flowering will thrive in the same house. Fancy Pelargoniums for early flowering should receive their final removal. Till established in the fresh pots water should be sparingly given. Keep a sharp look-out for green-fly, and destroy it on its first appearance.

Pits And Frames.

Bulbs and other plants for forcing should now be potted, including such as Tulips, Hyacinths, Gladiolus (The Bride), Spircea japonica, Lily of the Valley, Solomon's Seal, Iilium Har-risii, Narcissus, &c. They should be put into pots of various sizes according to the object for which they are intended. If for cutting, several bulbs may be put into larger pots, but if for the adornment of the conservatory or rooms, then the smaller the pots the better. When potted, all but the latter should be covered with ashes, and these should be placed in a cold frame with Freesias, Alliums, Crocosmos, Scillas, &c. Air should be freely admitted on all favourable occasions to half-hardy plants in cold frames, in order that they may be inured to the weather as far as possible. Pot on herbaceous Calceolarias, Cinerarias, Schizanthus, Cyclamens, &c, as they require it. Insert cuttings of shrubby Calceolarias, Pentstemons, Hollyhocks, and other plants that need the protection of cold frames. Violets for winter flowering should be put in frames if not there already, and any plants which require protection from frost should receive attention without delay.

Flower-Garden And Pleasure Ground.

This is one of the busiest months of the whole year, and much depends on the work done during it. Take up and protect from frost any plants that will not withstand the winter, such as Dahlias, Cannas, Fuchsias, Lobelias, Pelargoniums, &c. The beds should also be cleared of all summer bedding plants, and, after being edged and dug, planted with dwarf shrubs, Violas, Wallflowers, Myosotis, Silene, Alyssums, and the like, such plants making a fine display in early spring. When these have been planted, bulbs of various kinds may be dibbled in amongst them, as the flowers of these will stand well up above the carpet beneath. Seed of hardy annuals may also be sown early in the month, for if the winter should prove mild they will bloom before those sown in spring. Lawns should be mown where the grass has a tendency to grow, so that the leaves may be the more easily cleared off. Where alterations are proposed in the ground, or any planting is to be done, the work should be carried out as early as practicable. Trees planted while there is sufficient warmth in the soil to induce quick root action will succeed far better than if the process is deferred till later in the season. There are many evergreen shrubs which do far better when planted in autumn than in spring, therefore no time should be lost in completing the work. Plant deciduous trees as soon as their foliage is matured. Herbaceous borders should be looked over, and where weak plants are overcrowded by stronger ones, the former should be removed to a situation in which they can have more room to develop.

Take up shrubs for forcing and "lay them in", so that they may be potted on the first favourable opportunity. Any plants covering walls, buildings, &c, which require nailing, should at once receive attention to prevent them being broken by high winds.

September- In the Flower Garden

Plant-Houses.

Orchid Houses.-Many of the Dendrobiums will now have reached maturity, therefore they will not need so much water, but will want more air in proportion to ripen their bulbs. If plants of D. nobile, D. crassinode, D. Wardianum, D. heterocarpum, and D. Pierardi be removed to a cooler house when growth is thoroughly ripened, they will flower much more profusely than if left in the house where others are still in active growth. D. chrysanthum will now be in flower. As soon as the flowering period is past, repotting or surface-dressing should be done, as growth commences immediately afterwards. Towards the end of the month shading may be dispensed with, as the sun has not sufficient power so late in the year to do harm. Some of the early spring-flowering Cypripediums should be looked over, and if any need potting this should be done before the days get too short or the temperature cold. If the plants are robust, a mixture of good turfy loam and cow-dung may be used, if the former can be obtained from ground containing a small percentage only of lime. For the more delicate kinds use peat, covering the surface of the pots with living Sphagnum. Most of the Vandas belonging to the tricolor section may now be potted with safety. These plants are apt to become leggy if left alone too long, therefore their stems should be shortened and the roots brought nearer to the pots. This class only requires something to steady their stems; so that if clean crocks and charcoal are used, covering the surface with a Kttle peat and Sphagnum, it will be sufficient. The plants will need but little water at the roots, as the necessary syringing will keep them well supplied with moisture. They should, be kept under a temperature of from 65° to 70° at night for the present, with a corresponding rise in the daytime, according to the weather. Loelia anceps, L. albida, and L. autumnalis will now be showing their flower-spikes, and should be kept still in a moist state. Most of the Catt-leyas will by this time have finished growth, so that watering must be done carefully. Coslogyne crstata, Sobralia macrantha, Cymbidium Lowianum, and some others will still need good supplies of water, and if a little liquid manure could be added to assist them to finish their growth', this would be very beneficial. As all plants mature their growth they should be gradually hardened off, so that they may be the better able to withstand the winter. There are, however, many species still in active growth which will need particular care.

Hothouse- Many winter-flowering subjects in these structures will now need special attention, in order to induce them to produce their blooms at the time required. Centropogon Lucianus, Eranthmnum Andersonii, Ruellia macran-ilia, Plumbago coccima, Poinsettias, and the winter-flowering Gesneras should be exposed to the * sun as much as possible, so that their shoots may reach their full development. Caladiums should be thoroughly dried off, and when all leaves have fallen the pots may be stored away under the stage, but do not remove them into a lower temperature than 60°. Gloxinias may be removed to a house in which the heat does not fall below 50° If allowed to remain in the warm stove the bulbs will shrivel, or will, if moisture is afforded, recommence growing. Ixoras, Cro-tons, Dracaenas, and other plants should be kept free from insects. Gardenias and Eucharis for winter-flowering should have liberal treatment, with plenty of heat, the temperature being maintained at 70° by night, with a rise of 10° in the daytime. Towards the end of the month all shading may be abandoned, unless it be in the case of newly-potted seedlings or other plants having but little root.

Greenhouse and Conservatory-A goodly quantity of Mignonette should be sown during this month-one lot at the commencement, and another towards the latter end. Chrysanthemums will demand special care, including disbudding and protection from frost. Water must be given abundantly, if the weather be hot and dry, as sometimes is the case, in the early part of the month. This sometimes occurs, however, in conjunction with frosty nights, when it will be found necessary in low damp places to house them early. The first batch of Zonal Pelargoniums plunged in ashes should be housed, as should also the earliest set of Perpetual Carnations and Bouvardias. Advantage should be taken of the present opportunity, before many of the hard-wooded plants are taken in, to prune and tie all climbers, such as Passifloras, Jasminum grandiftorum, Clianthus, Tecomas, Stauntonias, and Clematises. These should have their shoots thinned out and cut away, and after the glass has been washed most of the hard-wooded species may be housed. Teas and other climbing Roses may also be pruned, and the border should be top-dressed with rich loam and decayed manure.

Pits And Frames.

Pot off Malmaison and other winter-flowering Carnations that were layered, as advised, last month. Take up Solatium capsicastrum, Callas, Bouvardias, and other winter-flowering plants and pot them afterwards, standing them on a bed of ashes in cold frames, shaded from the sun. Cinerarias will also benefit by being shifted into larger pots before they become pot-bound. See that they are shaded from the bright sun, and ventilate freely. Push, forward the propagation of all plants required for bedding, as Heliotropes, Coleus, Alternanthera, Iresine, Ageratums, &c. A good quantity of the scented varieties of Pelargoniums should also be put in, as they are very suitable for cutting.

Violets for winter flowering must be put into their permanent positions not later than the middle of the month. This will ensure their getting firmly established while there remains sufficient heat in the soil to induce the formation of young roots. Herbaceous Calceolarias sown last month will now be large enough for pricking out. The sooner this is done the better, to prevent the plants from damping. Tuberoses which have been reared in pits or frames in the summer should be taken into the greenhouse as their flower-spikes appear. Cyclamen should be potted on for a succession, and towards the end of the month another sowing may be made.

Flower-Garden And Pleasure Ground.

Proceed with the propagation of hardy border plants such as Iberis, Helianthemums, Litho-spermums, Dianthus, Phloxes, &c, by taking the young side-growths and inserting them in sandy soil in a cold frame. Where not already done take cuttings of Violas for spring flowering, also Pentstemons, Antirrhinums, &c, for the sooner these are rooted the more surely will they withstand the winter.

Pay attention to tying and staking plants in the herbaceous border that still keep in bloom or have not yet flowered, as the strong winds generally prevalent are apt to break them down. Bulbs of all kinds may be planted when the ground is vacant, but as most beds will still be occupied this may be deferred till next month. Grass on lawns usually grows luxuriantly this month, weeds accumulate rapidly, and leaves are also troublesome; but for the sake of appearances all must be so attended to that the garden may be kept neat and orderly, and thus give rise to a sense of pleasure.

September- In the Vegetable Garden

Kitchen-Garden Department.

In dry weather the ground should be kept well hoed, so that not a vestige of weeds may be seen when wet weather sets in. There will then be less occasion to tread and puddle the ground in attempting to destroy weeds when the state of the weather is unfavourable.

Cabbage,

Plant out your seedlings from the principal autumn sowing, 2 feet apart each way, to remain for hearting.

Cardoons.

Band, and earth up full-grown plants to blanch.

Cauliflowers.

Encourage growth in the plants by frequently stirring the soil about them.

Celery.

Earth up when the soil is dry.

Corn Salad.

Sow for winter and spring use.

Cress.

Continue to sow the Common; at the beginning of the month sow also Golden, American, and the Curled or Normandy, at the foot of a south wall, to afford a winter and spring supply.

Cucumbers.

Gather for pickling.

Endive.

Plant out successions of Green Curled and Batavian, and tie up for blanching all that are sufficiently advanced.

Leeks.

Draw a little earth to the roots.

Lettuce.

Plant out successions in sheltered situations, and tie up plants as they become fit. Another sowing of the sorts recommended last month may be made towards the middle of this.

Mustard.

Keep up a succession.

Onions.

-Take up any that may not have been fit'last mouth. House those that are sufficiently dry.

Parsley.

This is best when planted in frames and protected from frost, for winter use.

Peas.

Water the late crop, if the weather is dry.

Potatoes.

Take up and store.

Radishes.

A small sowing -may be made for late supply.

Spinach.

Hoe and thin. If not already done, the winter crop should be sown early in the month.

Twnips.

Hoe and thin.

Hardy-Fruit Department.

In this month the protection of ripening fruit, arid the gathering of it when it is fit, require the most urgent attention. Peaches and Nectarines attract wasps, earwigs, flies, and ants; and in moist weather snails. Earwigs must be trapped in Bean-stalks, as previously directed, and wasps enticed by some sweet beverage into bottles. Wood-lice can be caught readily by means of a little soft hay placed in the bottom of a flower-pot, and ants will be inclined to emigrate if their haunts and hiding-places are daily broken in upon by the hoe and rake; of the latter implement it can also be affirmed that where it has been recently plied along the bottom of the wall and on the border certain bipeds do not like to tread.

All leaves that shade Peaches and Nectarines should be turned aside, so that the fruit may be exposed to the direct rays of the sun. When the fruits are all gathered, the succession shoots should be looked to, and, if any of them are crowded, should be removed to admit light and sun to those left. The shoots of Pear-trees on walls will have pushed again; let these secondary growths be cut back to within 2 inches of their origin. Prepare ground for Strawberry plantations, and plant them -the sooner the better will be advantageous -in the way indicated in a former calendar. Eunners may be planted 6 inches apart in nursery beds.

Forcing Department.

Kidney-Beans.

Sow in pots or boxes, or preferably in beds in heated pits, to obtain a good supply for use in November. Let the pots be only partly filled with soil.

Mushrooms.

In this month the spawn naturally vegetates more freely than in any other, and it is the best time for making beds for a supply from November onwards. Prepare materials in dry, airy sheds, and make up fresh beds as required to keep up a supply. Spawn may be introduced when the heat of the bed is 70°. When the heat of the beds declines some time after spawning, cover them over with a layer of straw, which should be removed when the Mushrooms appear. Between 55° and 60° is a good temperature for beds in bearing.

Cucumbers.

The plants raised from seed sown last month for winter bearing should be put into places where heat can be applied when necessary. Sow again at the middle of the month. Keep up the heat for those that are in "bearing.

Melons.

In this month the temperature naturally declines to a considerable extent; but fruit, as it approaches maturity, should have an increased rather than a diminished temperature; therefore more artificial heat must be given for this purpose. When the heat is well kept up, more air can be given than would otherwise be the case, and consequently the fruit will be better flavoured. Attend frequently to stopping laterals, so that there may be few to cut out at any one time. Water should be given whenever necessary, and in fine weather the foliage may be sprinkled in mornings with a fine rose.

Pine-Apples.

The suckers advised to be potted last month will soon be ready to shift into fruiting-pots; use 10-inch ones for Queens, and 12-inch for strong growers, as Smooth Cayennes and others. Pot firmly in half-decomposed lumpy, fibrous loam, and plunge the pots into a heated bed that will maintain 80° to 90° constantly. At this season water the plants at once, and give no more until such time as they actually require it; examine every pot by hand before giving any more. These plants, under proper treatment, will fruit in succession to those started in March. Fruits that are swelling should have a high and rather moist temperature, with a bottom-heat of 80° to 90°; the top-heat for these may be 75° at night, and from 80° to 90° by day. If the tan has been taken away from the sides of the pots on account of too great heat, let it be replaced as soon as the temperature of the bed falls to 84°. Gradually reduce the supply of moisture as the fruit aj>proaches maturity. Give manure-water to succession plants. Syringe with water of the temperature of 80°. A little air should be given in the morning, but the house should be shut up early in the afternoon.

Vines.

The wood in the earliest vinery ought now to be thoroughly matured. The house should be thrown open night and day, in order to keep the temperature low. Vegetation being thus rendered inactive, the vines should be pruned about the end of October. In doing this, according to the spur method, any of them that are too long should be cut nearly close to the branch from which they proceed. It should be borne in mind that these vines will be forced into growth at a very unnatural season. It will therefore be wise not to prune them in too closely, but rather leave two or three eyes on every spur-shoot, and more on the terminals or other young rods. In vineries where the Grapes have only just been gathered, and the foliage is not yet decayed, attention must be paid to the ripening of the wood by admitting plenty of air and sun; and a little fire-heat will be necessary when the weather is dull, air being given at the same time. When the fruit is commencing to colour in the latest house, plenty of air must be given during the day, and a moderate quantity at night. This free circulation of air will require fire-heat at night, and occasionally a little through the day. Remove superfluous shoots and laterals, and syringe the foliage, so as to keep it always clean and healthy. Vines in pots may now be started.

Figs.-

Attend to former directions as regards a regular and plentiful supply of water, and if the plants are not over-vigorous, manure-water may be given to those on which the fruit is swelling. As the fruit ripens, the sujrply of water must be reduced.

Peaches and Nectarines.

When the leaves begin to lose their hold, take a fine-twigged broom, and draw it lightly in a direction from the base to the extremities of the shoots, so as not to injure the buds. Repeat this operation at intervals, till the whole are removed. Let all the leaves be picked up from the floor of the house after each brooming. Expose the trees to sun and air. The house should be cleaned and painted if necessary, and likewise the sashes.

August -in the Flower Garden

Plant-Houses.

Orchid Houses.-A number of the plants in these houses will now be in active growth, and for this reason must be kept warm. Among these may be mentioned those of the Phalae-nopsis family, which require a warm, even temperature. Dendrobiums will still demand plenty of heat and moisture. The house may be damped down with manure-water, using the same for the evaporating troughs. Keep a sharp look-out for thrips, which are very destructive to the young foliage. If any of the weevils are found cut away the parts affected at once and burn them, as nothing does more harm to Dendrobes than these minute creatures. Odontoglossums of the cris-pum section will generally have gone out of flower, and some will be starting to develop new growth. Any that require potting should be attended to before new roots are formed, as it is a great mistake to injure them by the process of transplanting to larger pots while in active growth. See that all pots and crocks used are quite clean. After potting shade the house a little more in bright weather, and keep the atmosphere closer for a short time, till the roots get active. Odontoglossum vexillarium, 0. Phalaenopsis, and some others of the same class, need a warmer temperature; from 60° to 65° at night suiting them admirably during this month. Keep up plenty of humidity in the atmosphere by constant damping down, and keep a sharp watch for red thrips, which finds its way into the young sheaths. Epidendrum vitellinum majus and some others will be improved by potting now. They should be grown with the cool Odontoglossums. Lycastes and Maxillarias will have completed their growth, so that they will need less water. The remarks that were given last month still apply to Cattleyas. When the nights are cold less air should be admitted, and a little fire-heat should be applied to cause a circulation of air.

Hothous Poinsettias, Euphorbia jacquiniaeflora, Amasonia punicea, and other winter-blooming plants, should be exposed to the sunlight for the purpose of ripening their shoots. This is a good time for potting Anthuriums in order that they may be well established before their flowering season comes round. Begonias of the section flowering in winter should also be potted on, and kept near the glass, to encourage a sturdy habit. As Caladiums finish their growth give less water, but do not dry them off too rapidly.

Where any palms need to be potted, perform the work during the current month so that they may become well rooted before the winter approaches. Ferns should also receive attention; particularly a batch of Adiantums for winter decorations should be potted into pots of a size larger, and seedlings should be pricked out into pans or pots for spring use. Take cuttings of Coleus and other plants of a tender nature, and root them in gentle heat so that they may grow bushy.

Greenhouse and Conservatory.-When the foliage of hard-wooded plants has grown firm, and before they are taken indoors, is a good time to look over them and rid them of insect pests. They may for this end be laid down on their sides, and washed with the garden engine or syringe, taking care to cleanse the under sides of the leaves. If they have two or three similar dressings they will be freed from insect plagues. Cuttings of show and fancy Pelargoniums that were put in last month will be ready for potting. When doing this choose a light, rich soil; do not over-pot, and use plenty of drainage material. Afterwards stand the plants in a cold frame or on the greenhouse shelf. Fuchsias may also be rooted now to give a supply of young plants for early display. Rochea falcata will now be in flower. When the flowers are over take off all young growths for cuttings, and insert them in a light, sandy soil; then put them on a dry shelf till rooted. Cactuses will have completed their growth, and therefore will need less moisture. These plants thrive with abundance of air and a dry atmosphere. There will still be a sufficiency of plants in flower for decorating the conservatory, as, for example, Liliun lancifolium, Hyacinthus candicans, Gladioli, Hydrangeas, Balsams, and many other plants of like character raised from seed; as these finish flowering fresh specimens should be introduced to keep up a gay appearance. As the nights get longer there will be more moisture in the atmosphere, therefore it will be necessary to guard against the damping off of flowers. To avoid this ventilate freely on all favourable occasions, and do not water in the evening in damp weather. Much mischief is often done among flowers by keeping the air too humid. A cool, dry, airy place, shaded from the sun, is most suitable for nearly all occupants of the Conservatory while in bloom.

Pits And Frames.

These structures will now be in great demand for the propagation of plants for bedding purposes. If Pelargonium cuttings are put in early there is not so much risk of their damping off in winter as when they are left till next month before the cuttings are taken. The young plants become well rooted, and consequently can absorb more moisture. Frames will also be required towards the end of the month for the protection of the more tender plants and bulbs, such as Freesias, Belladonna Lilies, Nerines, Tuberoses, and Vallota. As all these plants, excepting the first-named, flower in the autumn and winter, it will be requisite to cover them with lights in wet weather. Early Roman Hyacinths, Polyanthus Narcissus, and the earliest kind of Tulips should be potted and covered with ashes. If they can be plunged in a frame it will be so much the better, as they can then be had in bloom very early without forcing. Viola and other cuttings of herbaceous plants should be inserted so that roots may be formed before winter. Attend to previous remarks about Hydrangeas, Marguerites, Primulas and Cinerarias, Calceolarias, &c.

Flower-Garden And Pleasure Ground.

Outdoor work during this month is very heavy, so many plants requiring attention. Layer border Carnations at the beginning of the month. Transplant all seedlings of herbaceous plants that were sown last month. Cuttings of Pent-stemons, Antirrhinums, and some of the Phloxes may also be taken. About the middle of the month sow annuals for spring bedding, such as Swponaria calabrica, Limnanthes Douglasi, Virginian Stocks, Lasthenia californica, Nemophila, in-signis, Alyssum saxatile, Silene pendula, Myosotis, &c. Cuttings of choice alpines should now be inserted, as they will then make strong plants by next spring.

Violets for flowering in frames during winter should have liberal waterings with liquid manure to induce them to make plump crowns. Gather lavender and everlasting flowers where they are required for indoor use. Pay attention to staking and tying all herbaceous and other tall-growing plants. Lawns will now need constant attention, for the grass will grow apace; walks must be edged, and the weeds kept down. Flower-beds should have all the dead flowers removed. There is far more pleasure to be derived from a small place well kept than from a large one in a neglected state. Look to drains, and see that they are clear, or heavy thunderstorms may do considerable damage if the water is unable to get away. Shorten the shoots of Laurels, Hollies, and other evergreen shrubs that have grown too large for their position. Hoe and rake borders to keep weeds in abeyance.

August -in the Vegetable Garden

Kitchen-Garden Department.

Attention must now be paid to the sowing of certain crops for autumn, winter, and spring, which comprise Onions, Spinach, Cabbage, Lettuce, and Cauliflower. Onions and Spinach should be sown at the beginning, and again at the middle of the month; Cabbage, for a general crop, on the 8th, Lettuce the 20th, and Cauliflower the 24th. The exact time is of more importance than it is in the case of spring sowings. At that time a week sooner or later is sometimes of little consequence; but in this month there are particular times at which, almost to a day, certain crops must be sown, otherwise they will not attain perfection. If sown a week too early the plants may run to seed, and if as much too late they will not become full-sized.

In dry weather it is well to sow and plant immediately the soil is dug. Seeds cannot vegetate without moisture, yet it is not good to drench them with water, and then allow them to be parched up by the sun's rays. It is better to spread a mat over the bed to prevent the surface from drying till the seeds vegetate, when it must, of course, be taken off; but then the plants had better be shaded from the direct rays of the sun. Herbs for drying should be cut, in a dry day, before the flowers expand, and laid in a dry airy shaded place. Vegetables for pickling should also be gathered when they are quite dry.

Angelica.

Sow as soon as the seeds are ripe; cover them lightly.

Artichokes.

Cut down the stems as the crop is gathered.

Balm.

Gather for drying; it may now be propagated by slips.

Borage.

Sow for late use.

Borecole.

Plant out.

Broccoli.

Plant out for the late crop, and water frequently.

Brussels Sprouts.

In cold northern situations sow for transplanting in spring.

Cabbage.

The principal autumn sowing should be made about the 8th. Plant out those sown for Coleworts.

Cardoons.

Band a few of the earliest with hay or straw, and earth up for blanching.

Carrots.

In the beginning of the month sow j Early Horn, for spring use, in a warm sheltered situation.

Cauliflowers.

Sow about the 20th in a frame. Prick out the plants 6 inches apart in a frame ' or pit, where they are to remain until the spring, j Protect from frost whenever necessary, but ex- j pose fully when there is no fear of frost. This sowing may be made a little earlier or later, according as the situation is cold or warm. Do not allow them to suffer from drought.

Celeriac.

Suckers should be closely removed from the top of the root.

Celery.

Earth up the early crops as they advance, taking care to keep the hearts of the plants free from soil. Apply lime for slugs, and attend to watering.

Chervil

may be sown for succession. Sow the Tuberous-rooted.

Com Salad.

In the first fortnight sow for winter supply.

Endive.

Sow seeds from the beginning to the middle of the month, and for a late crop plant out from previous sowings; plants sufficiently advanced should be tied up to blanch.

Garlic.

Take up the bulbs when the leaves become yellowish and begin to wither; spread to dry in the sun, but shelter them from rain. When well dried, string them by their withered leaves on a dry straw rope.

Lettuce.

If not done last month, prepare a bed for ^sowing out-of-doors the first main crop, an important one. From the 15th to the 20th of the month sow such hardy sorts as Hammersmith Hardy Green and Tennis Ball, for standing the winter in a sheltered situation. Continue to tie up advancing crops.

Onions.

Sow seeds on the first week both for standing the winter and for drawing young; and at the middle of the month make another sowing for succession of the Queen, Early White Naples, and Rocca. Take up the main crop when ripe, and spread in the sun, on dry ground or gravel, till dry for housing.

Peas.-

Those sown last month for the latest crop should be kept well mulched and watered.

Badishes.

Black and White Spanish, for autumn and winter use, may be sown; also some of the Early White and Scarlet Turnip-rooted.

Shallots.

Take up when the leaves begin to wither, and treat in the same way as Garlic.

Spinach.

Sow the main winter crops at the beginning and middle of the month. A large breadth of this useful winter vegetable should be grown.

Tomatoes

, placed against a wall or paling, should be kept nailed or stopped. Gather fruit when ripe.

Turnips.

Make a small sowing of the White Stone and other hardy sorts early in the month, for spring use.

Hardy-Fruit Department.

The gathering of various fruits will require particular attention in this month. Early kinds of Apples and Pears, if gathered a few days too early, will be watery and insipid, and will not become sugary by lying in the fruit-room. If, on the other hand, they are allowed to remain a few days longer on the trees than they ought to do, they become mealy. The time to gather can be readily ascertained by cutting a fruit of Apple or Pear in two pieces, and examining the pips; if brown, the fruit is fit to be gathered. Very early kinds of Apples for a family supply are best gathered as required, because otherwise they lose their freshness. Gooseberries, Currants, Raspberries, and Strawberries are best gathered when cool and dry; but Peaches, Nectarines, Apricots, Plums, and Cherries may be gathered when dry at any time of the day.

Protect Morello Cherries on walls by netting, also Gooseberry and Currant trees, if the fruit is to be preserved to prolong the season. Peach and Nectarine trees should have a number of dry Bean-stalks introduced among the branches to trap ear-wigs. Go over these every morning, and blow the insects out of the Bean-stalks into a bottle half-filled with water; replace the stalks, and continue till the insects are reduced to few or none. Crevices between the soil and the bottom of the wall are highly favourable to insects, such as ants, wood-lice, &c. The soil close to the wall should be frequently stirred.

Continue to train the shoots of wall-trees, nailing them in as may be required; and, as this isbeing done, remove nails with which the swelling fruit is likely to come in contact. Shoots having a tendency to grow too strong should be nipped; weak shoots on the lower part of the tree should be left, taking care, however, that they are inclined to the direction in which they must ultimately be nailed.

Some of the early stopped vigorous shoots of Apples and Pears will have pushed a fresh leader; this should be cut back to about 2 inches from its base. Finish budding, and slacken the bands of buds where necessary.

It is now a good time to make plantations of Strawberries. Plant the runners as soon as fit, 18 inches apart in the rows, which should be 3 feet from each other. Shade, if necessary, till the plants get fresh hold, and water according to the state of the weather. Continue to cut off runners, when not required for new plantations. Thin the young shoots of Raspberries, leaving from four to six of the strongest. After the crop is gathered from the bearing branches they should be cut, so that the young shoots for bearing next summer may have all the light and nourishment.

Forcing Department.

Mushrooms.

Prepare dung for beds, and mix one-eighth of good fibrous loam with it. Put enough of it into the beds, so that when it is rammed firmly there will be left 15 inches. Fermentation will follow when the heat of it is from 70° to 80°. Spawn at once, and cover the surface with 2 inches of good loam, and ram it down firm.

Cucumbers.

If the weather is dull and wet, the fires will require to be worked so as to maintain a proper heat. Sow about the middle of the month for winter bearing. Those out-of-doors should be dusted with flowers of sulphur to prevent mildew. Gather for pickling; in general all that are fit should be gathered, from the ¦oldest to the youngest. By so doing a better succession ot young fruit will be ensured than if a number of old fruit Avere allowed to grow.

Melons.

Keep up a steady bottom-heat of 80°, and as much top-heat, with plenty of air. Shade plants which are recently planted for a few days until the roots have taken hold of the soil. Encourage the foliage to become broad and thick in substance. Abundance of air night and day will render it robust. It is better to •employ these means than to attempt cheeking luxuriance by limiting the supply of moisture at the root, for in this case red spider will be en- couraged. The supply of water must, however, be gradually diminished as the fruit is ripening.

Pine-Apples.

Shifting should be completed before the middle of this month. The bottom-heat should be from 85° to 90°. Water at the root should be withheld till fresh roots are emitted; but the foliage should be daily moistened by syringing. At the time of closing the house the base of the plants should at all times be moderately moist. AH suckers that appear on succession plants should be screwed out, leaving only one on each plant when tho fruit appears. Suckers, as they can be taken off, should, with others in stock, have the same treatment as recommended for those started last March.

Vines.

Dryness is essential to the keeping of ripe Grapes in good condition, till required for use. Therefore, in dry, clear weather, abundance of air should be given during the day, and a moderate quantity at night; but when the weather is wet, with little or no sunshine to dry up the damp, a little fire-heat, with a free circulation of air at the same time, will have a beneficial effect. Vineries, in which the fruit is swelling, should be kept moist; and this will be difficult in such hot, dry weather as frequently occurs in this month. The paths must be sprinkled, but the foliage not syringed beyond the time the Grapes come into bloom. In such weathez', the leaves of a healthy Vine carry off an immense quantity of moisture by evaporation, and they cannot be long healthy if the loss by evaporation is not replaced. Remove superfluous shoots, and unhealthy and decaying berries. Frontignans, when ripe, are apt to shrivel when the bunches are exposed to hot sun, therefore the front ought to be shaded.

Figs.

Plants, on which the fruit is swelling, will require a good supply of water at this season. Once a day will not be generally sufficient, and for those trees in pots the best rule is to give them regularly as much water as they require. The soil in the pots or border shnnlrl nn?» Kb dry. Syringe the foliage frequently if red spider make its appearance. When tho fruit begins to ripen, gradually reduce the supply of water, and take care that no suckoi-s are allowed to spring up, for the sap will flow to them rather than to the fruiting branches.

Peaches and Nectarines.

When the crop is gathered, see that the border has not become too dry; and if it has, it should be well watered. The trees should be regularly syringed, and air freely admitted, in order to ripen the wood. If the weather is favourable, the lights may be entirely taken off when growth is properly matured.

Strawberries.

Shift into 5-inch pots those that were layered for forcing. Pot them firmly, and place them on ash-beds in a place where they will have the full force of sunshine and heat. As soon as the roots have filled the pots see that no lack of water is allowed.