September- In the Flower Garden

Plant-Houses.

Orchid Houses.-Many of the Dendrobiums will now have reached maturity, therefore they will not need so much water, but will want more air in proportion to ripen their bulbs. If plants of D. nobile, D. crassinode, D. Wardianum, D. heterocarpum, and D. Pierardi be removed to a cooler house when growth is thoroughly ripened, they will flower much more profusely than if left in the house where others are still in active growth. D. chrysanthum will now be in flower. As soon as the flowering period is past, repotting or surface-dressing should be done, as growth commences immediately afterwards. Towards the end of the month shading may be dispensed with, as the sun has not sufficient power so late in the year to do harm. Some of the early spring-flowering Cypripediums should be looked over, and if any need potting this should be done before the days get too short or the temperature cold. If the plants are robust, a mixture of good turfy loam and cow-dung may be used, if the former can be obtained from ground containing a small percentage only of lime. For the more delicate kinds use peat, covering the surface of the pots with living Sphagnum. Most of the Vandas belonging to the tricolor section may now be potted with safety. These plants are apt to become leggy if left alone too long, therefore their stems should be shortened and the roots brought nearer to the pots. This class only requires something to steady their stems; so that if clean crocks and charcoal are used, covering the surface with a Kttle peat and Sphagnum, it will be sufficient. The plants will need but little water at the roots, as the necessary syringing will keep them well supplied with moisture. They should, be kept under a temperature of from 65° to 70° at night for the present, with a corresponding rise in the daytime, according to the weather. Loelia anceps, L. albida, and L. autumnalis will now be showing their flower-spikes, and should be kept still in a moist state. Most of the Catt-leyas will by this time have finished growth, so that watering must be done carefully. Coslogyne crstata, Sobralia macrantha, Cymbidium Lowianum, and some others will still need good supplies of water, and if a little liquid manure could be added to assist them to finish their growth', this would be very beneficial. As all plants mature their growth they should be gradually hardened off, so that they may be the better able to withstand the winter. There are, however, many species still in active growth which will need particular care.

Hothouse- Many winter-flowering subjects in these structures will now need special attention, in order to induce them to produce their blooms at the time required. Centropogon Lucianus, Eranthmnum Andersonii, Ruellia macran-ilia, Plumbago coccima, Poinsettias, and the winter-flowering Gesneras should be exposed to the * sun as much as possible, so that their shoots may reach their full development. Caladiums should be thoroughly dried off, and when all leaves have fallen the pots may be stored away under the stage, but do not remove them into a lower temperature than 60°. Gloxinias may be removed to a house in which the heat does not fall below 50° If allowed to remain in the warm stove the bulbs will shrivel, or will, if moisture is afforded, recommence growing. Ixoras, Cro-tons, Dracaenas, and other plants should be kept free from insects. Gardenias and Eucharis for winter-flowering should have liberal treatment, with plenty of heat, the temperature being maintained at 70° by night, with a rise of 10° in the daytime. Towards the end of the month all shading may be abandoned, unless it be in the case of newly-potted seedlings or other plants having but little root.

Greenhouse and Conservatory-A goodly quantity of Mignonette should be sown during this month-one lot at the commencement, and another towards the latter end. Chrysanthemums will demand special care, including disbudding and protection from frost. Water must be given abundantly, if the weather be hot and dry, as sometimes is the case, in the early part of the month. This sometimes occurs, however, in conjunction with frosty nights, when it will be found necessary in low damp places to house them early. The first batch of Zonal Pelargoniums plunged in ashes should be housed, as should also the earliest set of Perpetual Carnations and Bouvardias. Advantage should be taken of the present opportunity, before many of the hard-wooded plants are taken in, to prune and tie all climbers, such as Passifloras, Jasminum grandiftorum, Clianthus, Tecomas, Stauntonias, and Clematises. These should have their shoots thinned out and cut away, and after the glass has been washed most of the hard-wooded species may be housed. Teas and other climbing Roses may also be pruned, and the border should be top-dressed with rich loam and decayed manure.

Pits And Frames.

Pot off Malmaison and other winter-flowering Carnations that were layered, as advised, last month. Take up Solatium capsicastrum, Callas, Bouvardias, and other winter-flowering plants and pot them afterwards, standing them on a bed of ashes in cold frames, shaded from the sun. Cinerarias will also benefit by being shifted into larger pots before they become pot-bound. See that they are shaded from the bright sun, and ventilate freely. Push, forward the propagation of all plants required for bedding, as Heliotropes, Coleus, Alternanthera, Iresine, Ageratums, &c. A good quantity of the scented varieties of Pelargoniums should also be put in, as they are very suitable for cutting.

Violets for winter flowering must be put into their permanent positions not later than the middle of the month. This will ensure their getting firmly established while there remains sufficient heat in the soil to induce the formation of young roots. Herbaceous Calceolarias sown last month will now be large enough for pricking out. The sooner this is done the better, to prevent the plants from damping. Tuberoses which have been reared in pits or frames in the summer should be taken into the greenhouse as their flower-spikes appear. Cyclamen should be potted on for a succession, and towards the end of the month another sowing may be made.

Flower-Garden And Pleasure Ground.

Proceed with the propagation of hardy border plants such as Iberis, Helianthemums, Litho-spermums, Dianthus, Phloxes, &c, by taking the young side-growths and inserting them in sandy soil in a cold frame. Where not already done take cuttings of Violas for spring flowering, also Pentstemons, Antirrhinums, &c, for the sooner these are rooted the more surely will they withstand the winter.

Pay attention to tying and staking plants in the herbaceous border that still keep in bloom or have not yet flowered, as the strong winds generally prevalent are apt to break them down. Bulbs of all kinds may be planted when the ground is vacant, but as most beds will still be occupied this may be deferred till next month. Grass on lawns usually grows luxuriantly this month, weeds accumulate rapidly, and leaves are also troublesome; but for the sake of appearances all must be so attended to that the garden may be kept neat and orderly, and thus give rise to a sense of pleasure.

September- In the Vegetable Garden

Kitchen-Garden Department.

In dry weather the ground should be kept well hoed, so that not a vestige of weeds may be seen when wet weather sets in. There will then be less occasion to tread and puddle the ground in attempting to destroy weeds when the state of the weather is unfavourable.

Cabbage,

Plant out your seedlings from the principal autumn sowing, 2 feet apart each way, to remain for hearting.

Cardoons.

Band, and earth up full-grown plants to blanch.

Cauliflowers.

Encourage growth in the plants by frequently stirring the soil about them.

Celery.

Earth up when the soil is dry.

Corn Salad.

Sow for winter and spring use.

Cress.

Continue to sow the Common; at the beginning of the month sow also Golden, American, and the Curled or Normandy, at the foot of a south wall, to afford a winter and spring supply.

Cucumbers.

Gather for pickling.

Endive.

Plant out successions of Green Curled and Batavian, and tie up for blanching all that are sufficiently advanced.

Leeks.

Draw a little earth to the roots.

Lettuce.

Plant out successions in sheltered situations, and tie up plants as they become fit. Another sowing of the sorts recommended last month may be made towards the middle of this.

Mustard.

Keep up a succession.

Onions.

-Take up any that may not have been fit'last mouth. House those that are sufficiently dry.

Parsley.

This is best when planted in frames and protected from frost, for winter use.

Peas.

Water the late crop, if the weather is dry.

Potatoes.

Take up and store.

Radishes.

A small sowing -may be made for late supply.

Spinach.

Hoe and thin. If not already done, the winter crop should be sown early in the month.

Twnips.

Hoe and thin.

Hardy-Fruit Department.

In this month the protection of ripening fruit, arid the gathering of it when it is fit, require the most urgent attention. Peaches and Nectarines attract wasps, earwigs, flies, and ants; and in moist weather snails. Earwigs must be trapped in Bean-stalks, as previously directed, and wasps enticed by some sweet beverage into bottles. Wood-lice can be caught readily by means of a little soft hay placed in the bottom of a flower-pot, and ants will be inclined to emigrate if their haunts and hiding-places are daily broken in upon by the hoe and rake; of the latter implement it can also be affirmed that where it has been recently plied along the bottom of the wall and on the border certain bipeds do not like to tread.

All leaves that shade Peaches and Nectarines should be turned aside, so that the fruit may be exposed to the direct rays of the sun. When the fruits are all gathered, the succession shoots should be looked to, and, if any of them are crowded, should be removed to admit light and sun to those left. The shoots of Pear-trees on walls will have pushed again; let these secondary growths be cut back to within 2 inches of their origin. Prepare ground for Strawberry plantations, and plant them -the sooner the better will be advantageous -in the way indicated in a former calendar. Eunners may be planted 6 inches apart in nursery beds.

Forcing Department.

Kidney-Beans.

Sow in pots or boxes, or preferably in beds in heated pits, to obtain a good supply for use in November. Let the pots be only partly filled with soil.

Mushrooms.

In this month the spawn naturally vegetates more freely than in any other, and it is the best time for making beds for a supply from November onwards. Prepare materials in dry, airy sheds, and make up fresh beds as required to keep up a supply. Spawn may be introduced when the heat of the bed is 70°. When the heat of the beds declines some time after spawning, cover them over with a layer of straw, which should be removed when the Mushrooms appear. Between 55° and 60° is a good temperature for beds in bearing.

Cucumbers.

The plants raised from seed sown last month for winter bearing should be put into places where heat can be applied when necessary. Sow again at the middle of the month. Keep up the heat for those that are in "bearing.

Melons.

In this month the temperature naturally declines to a considerable extent; but fruit, as it approaches maturity, should have an increased rather than a diminished temperature; therefore more artificial heat must be given for this purpose. When the heat is well kept up, more air can be given than would otherwise be the case, and consequently the fruit will be better flavoured. Attend frequently to stopping laterals, so that there may be few to cut out at any one time. Water should be given whenever necessary, and in fine weather the foliage may be sprinkled in mornings with a fine rose.

Pine-Apples.

The suckers advised to be potted last month will soon be ready to shift into fruiting-pots; use 10-inch ones for Queens, and 12-inch for strong growers, as Smooth Cayennes and others. Pot firmly in half-decomposed lumpy, fibrous loam, and plunge the pots into a heated bed that will maintain 80° to 90° constantly. At this season water the plants at once, and give no more until such time as they actually require it; examine every pot by hand before giving any more. These plants, under proper treatment, will fruit in succession to those started in March. Fruits that are swelling should have a high and rather moist temperature, with a bottom-heat of 80° to 90°; the top-heat for these may be 75° at night, and from 80° to 90° by day. If the tan has been taken away from the sides of the pots on account of too great heat, let it be replaced as soon as the temperature of the bed falls to 84°. Gradually reduce the supply of moisture as the fruit aj>proaches maturity. Give manure-water to succession plants. Syringe with water of the temperature of 80°. A little air should be given in the morning, but the house should be shut up early in the afternoon.

Vines.

The wood in the earliest vinery ought now to be thoroughly matured. The house should be thrown open night and day, in order to keep the temperature low. Vegetation being thus rendered inactive, the vines should be pruned about the end of October. In doing this, according to the spur method, any of them that are too long should be cut nearly close to the branch from which they proceed. It should be borne in mind that these vines will be forced into growth at a very unnatural season. It will therefore be wise not to prune them in too closely, but rather leave two or three eyes on every spur-shoot, and more on the terminals or other young rods. In vineries where the Grapes have only just been gathered, and the foliage is not yet decayed, attention must be paid to the ripening of the wood by admitting plenty of air and sun; and a little fire-heat will be necessary when the weather is dull, air being given at the same time. When the fruit is commencing to colour in the latest house, plenty of air must be given during the day, and a moderate quantity at night. This free circulation of air will require fire-heat at night, and occasionally a little through the day. Remove superfluous shoots and laterals, and syringe the foliage, so as to keep it always clean and healthy. Vines in pots may now be started.

Figs.-

Attend to former directions as regards a regular and plentiful supply of water, and if the plants are not over-vigorous, manure-water may be given to those on which the fruit is swelling. As the fruit ripens, the sujrply of water must be reduced.

Peaches and Nectarines.

When the leaves begin to lose their hold, take a fine-twigged broom, and draw it lightly in a direction from the base to the extremities of the shoots, so as not to injure the buds. Repeat this operation at intervals, till the whole are removed. Let all the leaves be picked up from the floor of the house after each brooming. Expose the trees to sun and air. The house should be cleaned and painted if necessary, and likewise the sashes.