August -in the Flower Garden

Plant-Houses.

Orchid Houses.-A number of the plants in these houses will now be in active growth, and for this reason must be kept warm. Among these may be mentioned those of the Phalae-nopsis family, which require a warm, even temperature. Dendrobiums will still demand plenty of heat and moisture. The house may be damped down with manure-water, using the same for the evaporating troughs. Keep a sharp look-out for thrips, which are very destructive to the young foliage. If any of the weevils are found cut away the parts affected at once and burn them, as nothing does more harm to Dendrobes than these minute creatures. Odontoglossums of the cris-pum section will generally have gone out of flower, and some will be starting to develop new growth. Any that require potting should be attended to before new roots are formed, as it is a great mistake to injure them by the process of transplanting to larger pots while in active growth. See that all pots and crocks used are quite clean. After potting shade the house a little more in bright weather, and keep the atmosphere closer for a short time, till the roots get active. Odontoglossum vexillarium, 0. Phalaenopsis, and some others of the same class, need a warmer temperature; from 60° to 65° at night suiting them admirably during this month. Keep up plenty of humidity in the atmosphere by constant damping down, and keep a sharp watch for red thrips, which finds its way into the young sheaths. Epidendrum vitellinum majus and some others will be improved by potting now. They should be grown with the cool Odontoglossums. Lycastes and Maxillarias will have completed their growth, so that they will need less water. The remarks that were given last month still apply to Cattleyas. When the nights are cold less air should be admitted, and a little fire-heat should be applied to cause a circulation of air.

Hothous Poinsettias, Euphorbia jacquiniaeflora, Amasonia punicea, and other winter-blooming plants, should be exposed to the sunlight for the purpose of ripening their shoots. This is a good time for potting Anthuriums in order that they may be well established before their flowering season comes round. Begonias of the section flowering in winter should also be potted on, and kept near the glass, to encourage a sturdy habit. As Caladiums finish their growth give less water, but do not dry them off too rapidly.

Where any palms need to be potted, perform the work during the current month so that they may become well rooted before the winter approaches. Ferns should also receive attention; particularly a batch of Adiantums for winter decorations should be potted into pots of a size larger, and seedlings should be pricked out into pans or pots for spring use. Take cuttings of Coleus and other plants of a tender nature, and root them in gentle heat so that they may grow bushy.

Greenhouse and Conservatory.-When the foliage of hard-wooded plants has grown firm, and before they are taken indoors, is a good time to look over them and rid them of insect pests. They may for this end be laid down on their sides, and washed with the garden engine or syringe, taking care to cleanse the under sides of the leaves. If they have two or three similar dressings they will be freed from insect plagues. Cuttings of show and fancy Pelargoniums that were put in last month will be ready for potting. When doing this choose a light, rich soil; do not over-pot, and use plenty of drainage material. Afterwards stand the plants in a cold frame or on the greenhouse shelf. Fuchsias may also be rooted now to give a supply of young plants for early display. Rochea falcata will now be in flower. When the flowers are over take off all young growths for cuttings, and insert them in a light, sandy soil; then put them on a dry shelf till rooted. Cactuses will have completed their growth, and therefore will need less moisture. These plants thrive with abundance of air and a dry atmosphere. There will still be a sufficiency of plants in flower for decorating the conservatory, as, for example, Liliun lancifolium, Hyacinthus candicans, Gladioli, Hydrangeas, Balsams, and many other plants of like character raised from seed; as these finish flowering fresh specimens should be introduced to keep up a gay appearance. As the nights get longer there will be more moisture in the atmosphere, therefore it will be necessary to guard against the damping off of flowers. To avoid this ventilate freely on all favourable occasions, and do not water in the evening in damp weather. Much mischief is often done among flowers by keeping the air too humid. A cool, dry, airy place, shaded from the sun, is most suitable for nearly all occupants of the Conservatory while in bloom.

Pits And Frames.

These structures will now be in great demand for the propagation of plants for bedding purposes. If Pelargonium cuttings are put in early there is not so much risk of their damping off in winter as when they are left till next month before the cuttings are taken. The young plants become well rooted, and consequently can absorb more moisture. Frames will also be required towards the end of the month for the protection of the more tender plants and bulbs, such as Freesias, Belladonna Lilies, Nerines, Tuberoses, and Vallota. As all these plants, excepting the first-named, flower in the autumn and winter, it will be requisite to cover them with lights in wet weather. Early Roman Hyacinths, Polyanthus Narcissus, and the earliest kind of Tulips should be potted and covered with ashes. If they can be plunged in a frame it will be so much the better, as they can then be had in bloom very early without forcing. Viola and other cuttings of herbaceous plants should be inserted so that roots may be formed before winter. Attend to previous remarks about Hydrangeas, Marguerites, Primulas and Cinerarias, Calceolarias, &c.

Flower-Garden And Pleasure Ground.

Outdoor work during this month is very heavy, so many plants requiring attention. Layer border Carnations at the beginning of the month. Transplant all seedlings of herbaceous plants that were sown last month. Cuttings of Pent-stemons, Antirrhinums, and some of the Phloxes may also be taken. About the middle of the month sow annuals for spring bedding, such as Swponaria calabrica, Limnanthes Douglasi, Virginian Stocks, Lasthenia californica, Nemophila, in-signis, Alyssum saxatile, Silene pendula, Myosotis, &c. Cuttings of choice alpines should now be inserted, as they will then make strong plants by next spring.

Violets for flowering in frames during winter should have liberal waterings with liquid manure to induce them to make plump crowns. Gather lavender and everlasting flowers where they are required for indoor use. Pay attention to staking and tying all herbaceous and other tall-growing plants. Lawns will now need constant attention, for the grass will grow apace; walks must be edged, and the weeds kept down. Flower-beds should have all the dead flowers removed. There is far more pleasure to be derived from a small place well kept than from a large one in a neglected state. Look to drains, and see that they are clear, or heavy thunderstorms may do considerable damage if the water is unable to get away. Shorten the shoots of Laurels, Hollies, and other evergreen shrubs that have grown too large for their position. Hoe and rake borders to keep weeds in abeyance.

August -in the Vegetable Garden

Kitchen-Garden Department.

Attention must now be paid to the sowing of certain crops for autumn, winter, and spring, which comprise Onions, Spinach, Cabbage, Lettuce, and Cauliflower. Onions and Spinach should be sown at the beginning, and again at the middle of the month; Cabbage, for a general crop, on the 8th, Lettuce the 20th, and Cauliflower the 24th. The exact time is of more importance than it is in the case of spring sowings. At that time a week sooner or later is sometimes of little consequence; but in this month there are particular times at which, almost to a day, certain crops must be sown, otherwise they will not attain perfection. If sown a week too early the plants may run to seed, and if as much too late they will not become full-sized.

In dry weather it is well to sow and plant immediately the soil is dug. Seeds cannot vegetate without moisture, yet it is not good to drench them with water, and then allow them to be parched up by the sun's rays. It is better to spread a mat over the bed to prevent the surface from drying till the seeds vegetate, when it must, of course, be taken off; but then the plants had better be shaded from the direct rays of the sun. Herbs for drying should be cut, in a dry day, before the flowers expand, and laid in a dry airy shaded place. Vegetables for pickling should also be gathered when they are quite dry.

Angelica.

Sow as soon as the seeds are ripe; cover them lightly.

Artichokes.

Cut down the stems as the crop is gathered.

Balm.

Gather for drying; it may now be propagated by slips.

Borage.

Sow for late use.

Borecole.

Plant out.

Broccoli.

Plant out for the late crop, and water frequently.

Brussels Sprouts.

In cold northern situations sow for transplanting in spring.

Cabbage.

The principal autumn sowing should be made about the 8th. Plant out those sown for Coleworts.

Cardoons.

Band a few of the earliest with hay or straw, and earth up for blanching.

Carrots.

In the beginning of the month sow j Early Horn, for spring use, in a warm sheltered situation.

Cauliflowers.

Sow about the 20th in a frame. Prick out the plants 6 inches apart in a frame ' or pit, where they are to remain until the spring, j Protect from frost whenever necessary, but ex- j pose fully when there is no fear of frost. This sowing may be made a little earlier or later, according as the situation is cold or warm. Do not allow them to suffer from drought.

Celeriac.

Suckers should be closely removed from the top of the root.

Celery.

Earth up the early crops as they advance, taking care to keep the hearts of the plants free from soil. Apply lime for slugs, and attend to watering.

Chervil

may be sown for succession. Sow the Tuberous-rooted.

Com Salad.

In the first fortnight sow for winter supply.

Endive.

Sow seeds from the beginning to the middle of the month, and for a late crop plant out from previous sowings; plants sufficiently advanced should be tied up to blanch.

Garlic.

Take up the bulbs when the leaves become yellowish and begin to wither; spread to dry in the sun, but shelter them from rain. When well dried, string them by their withered leaves on a dry straw rope.

Lettuce.

If not done last month, prepare a bed for ^sowing out-of-doors the first main crop, an important one. From the 15th to the 20th of the month sow such hardy sorts as Hammersmith Hardy Green and Tennis Ball, for standing the winter in a sheltered situation. Continue to tie up advancing crops.

Onions.

Sow seeds on the first week both for standing the winter and for drawing young; and at the middle of the month make another sowing for succession of the Queen, Early White Naples, and Rocca. Take up the main crop when ripe, and spread in the sun, on dry ground or gravel, till dry for housing.

Peas.-

Those sown last month for the latest crop should be kept well mulched and watered.

Badishes.

Black and White Spanish, for autumn and winter use, may be sown; also some of the Early White and Scarlet Turnip-rooted.

Shallots.

Take up when the leaves begin to wither, and treat in the same way as Garlic.

Spinach.

Sow the main winter crops at the beginning and middle of the month. A large breadth of this useful winter vegetable should be grown.

Tomatoes

, placed against a wall or paling, should be kept nailed or stopped. Gather fruit when ripe.

Turnips.

Make a small sowing of the White Stone and other hardy sorts early in the month, for spring use.

Hardy-Fruit Department.

The gathering of various fruits will require particular attention in this month. Early kinds of Apples and Pears, if gathered a few days too early, will be watery and insipid, and will not become sugary by lying in the fruit-room. If, on the other hand, they are allowed to remain a few days longer on the trees than they ought to do, they become mealy. The time to gather can be readily ascertained by cutting a fruit of Apple or Pear in two pieces, and examining the pips; if brown, the fruit is fit to be gathered. Very early kinds of Apples for a family supply are best gathered as required, because otherwise they lose their freshness. Gooseberries, Currants, Raspberries, and Strawberries are best gathered when cool and dry; but Peaches, Nectarines, Apricots, Plums, and Cherries may be gathered when dry at any time of the day.

Protect Morello Cherries on walls by netting, also Gooseberry and Currant trees, if the fruit is to be preserved to prolong the season. Peach and Nectarine trees should have a number of dry Bean-stalks introduced among the branches to trap ear-wigs. Go over these every morning, and blow the insects out of the Bean-stalks into a bottle half-filled with water; replace the stalks, and continue till the insects are reduced to few or none. Crevices between the soil and the bottom of the wall are highly favourable to insects, such as ants, wood-lice, &c. The soil close to the wall should be frequently stirred.

Continue to train the shoots of wall-trees, nailing them in as may be required; and, as this isbeing done, remove nails with which the swelling fruit is likely to come in contact. Shoots having a tendency to grow too strong should be nipped; weak shoots on the lower part of the tree should be left, taking care, however, that they are inclined to the direction in which they must ultimately be nailed.

Some of the early stopped vigorous shoots of Apples and Pears will have pushed a fresh leader; this should be cut back to about 2 inches from its base. Finish budding, and slacken the bands of buds where necessary.

It is now a good time to make plantations of Strawberries. Plant the runners as soon as fit, 18 inches apart in the rows, which should be 3 feet from each other. Shade, if necessary, till the plants get fresh hold, and water according to the state of the weather. Continue to cut off runners, when not required for new plantations. Thin the young shoots of Raspberries, leaving from four to six of the strongest. After the crop is gathered from the bearing branches they should be cut, so that the young shoots for bearing next summer may have all the light and nourishment.

Forcing Department.

Mushrooms.

Prepare dung for beds, and mix one-eighth of good fibrous loam with it. Put enough of it into the beds, so that when it is rammed firmly there will be left 15 inches. Fermentation will follow when the heat of it is from 70° to 80°. Spawn at once, and cover the surface with 2 inches of good loam, and ram it down firm.

Cucumbers.

If the weather is dull and wet, the fires will require to be worked so as to maintain a proper heat. Sow about the middle of the month for winter bearing. Those out-of-doors should be dusted with flowers of sulphur to prevent mildew. Gather for pickling; in general all that are fit should be gathered, from the ¦oldest to the youngest. By so doing a better succession ot young fruit will be ensured than if a number of old fruit Avere allowed to grow.

Melons.

Keep up a steady bottom-heat of 80°, and as much top-heat, with plenty of air. Shade plants which are recently planted for a few days until the roots have taken hold of the soil. Encourage the foliage to become broad and thick in substance. Abundance of air night and day will render it robust. It is better to •employ these means than to attempt cheeking luxuriance by limiting the supply of moisture at the root, for in this case red spider will be en- couraged. The supply of water must, however, be gradually diminished as the fruit is ripening.

Pine-Apples.

Shifting should be completed before the middle of this month. The bottom-heat should be from 85° to 90°. Water at the root should be withheld till fresh roots are emitted; but the foliage should be daily moistened by syringing. At the time of closing the house the base of the plants should at all times be moderately moist. AH suckers that appear on succession plants should be screwed out, leaving only one on each plant when tho fruit appears. Suckers, as they can be taken off, should, with others in stock, have the same treatment as recommended for those started last March.

Vines.

Dryness is essential to the keeping of ripe Grapes in good condition, till required for use. Therefore, in dry, clear weather, abundance of air should be given during the day, and a moderate quantity at night; but when the weather is wet, with little or no sunshine to dry up the damp, a little fire-heat, with a free circulation of air at the same time, will have a beneficial effect. Vineries, in which the fruit is swelling, should be kept moist; and this will be difficult in such hot, dry weather as frequently occurs in this month. The paths must be sprinkled, but the foliage not syringed beyond the time the Grapes come into bloom. In such weathez', the leaves of a healthy Vine carry off an immense quantity of moisture by evaporation, and they cannot be long healthy if the loss by evaporation is not replaced. Remove superfluous shoots, and unhealthy and decaying berries. Frontignans, when ripe, are apt to shrivel when the bunches are exposed to hot sun, therefore the front ought to be shaded.

Figs.

Plants, on which the fruit is swelling, will require a good supply of water at this season. Once a day will not be generally sufficient, and for those trees in pots the best rule is to give them regularly as much water as they require. The soil in the pots or border shnnlrl nn?» Kb dry. Syringe the foliage frequently if red spider make its appearance. When tho fruit begins to ripen, gradually reduce the supply of water, and take care that no suckoi-s are allowed to spring up, for the sap will flow to them rather than to the fruiting branches.

Peaches and Nectarines.

When the crop is gathered, see that the border has not become too dry; and if it has, it should be well watered. The trees should be regularly syringed, and air freely admitted, in order to ripen the wood. If the weather is favourable, the lights may be entirely taken off when growth is properly matured.

Strawberries.

Shift into 5-inch pots those that were layered for forcing. Pot them firmly, and place them on ash-beds in a place where they will have the full force of sunshine and heat. As soon as the roots have filled the pots see that no lack of water is allowed.