October- In the Flower Garden

Plant-Houses.

Orchid Houses.-As the sun is on the wane, and the outside temperature becomes daily cooler, greater care must be exercised in supplying water to most of the inmates of these houses. A great number of Cattleyas will be at rest, and those which have not yet completed their growth will not, owing to the reduced temperature, require so much water as those growing during the height of summer. All Dendrobes which have made their year's growth should have a drier temperature, but such kinds as densiflorum, Farmeri, thyrsiflorum, Hillii, and others with persistent foliage should not be subjected to a lower temperature than 50° to 55° Fahr.; while such as Wardianum, Findlayanum, nobile, Ainsworthii, and other members of that section may be wintered in a house whose atmosphere sometimes falls as low as 45° Fahr. There are not many Orchids in flower in October, but Dendrobium Phalcenopsis, D. P. Schroederianum, and a few more will be developing their flower-spikes, and will require special attention. Vanda Amesiana, Omidium tignrmm, and some few others will still be in bloom. Zygopetalums should be examined for thrips, which are very fond of the flower-buds that will shortly be expanding. Calanthes must be watered sparingly, and the air of the house in which they are growing should be kept rather dry. The present is a favourable opportunity for giving the Orchid houses a thorough wash down before winter, as many of the Dendrobes and other species are dormant in cooler houses. Remove all shingle, gravel, shell, or whatever the stages may be covered with, and wash it in boiling water. This process will destroy any insects which may be lurking in it, and also remove any soil which may have been washed out from the pots.

The temperature of the East Indian houses may be reduced to 65° at night, with a proportionate reduction in the daytime. That of the intermediate house should be 60°, and the cool house 50° to 55°, according to the weather. With this reduction of heat there should be a corresponding diminution in the amount of moisture.

Hothouse. - Cuttings of Croton and other hard-wooded, fine-foliaged plants may still be propagated where a good deal of heat is available. Those rooted now will make nice plants for early spring use. Towards the end of the month cut back Allamandas to within three or four eyes of the preceding year's growth. We do not recommend drying off, but rather the reverse. Various other stove climbers and deciduous plants should now be gradually ripened off, so that they may have a rest for the following two months. Hothouse plants in flower are not numerous. There are, however, a few with brightly-coloured flowers which will be expanding their blooms, including Poinsettias, Plumbagos, and Lasiandras. These should be afforded a little more heat, and fully exposed to sunlight. As the days decline the heat of these houses should be gradually lessened to 65° by night, with a rise of 10° or 15° by day, under sun-heat. The atmosphere should also be drier, but on no account should it be parched.

Greenhouse and Conservatory.-Any hard-wooded plants "which still remain out-of-doors should be housed early in the month. Heaths, Epacris, and other plants of similar nature should be put where there is a free circulation of air whenever the state of the weather permits. Water should be given sparingly, according to the variations of weather, and on fine mornings if possible, to avoid stagnation of the atmosphere. All Chrysanthemums should be housed. The most forward varieties must occupy a space by themselves, and when in bloom should be removed to the conservatory. Pelargoniums of the Zonal type that were prepared for autumn flowering will now be fully in flower, and should have a somewhat dry atmosphere with a temperature of from 55° to 60°, and those which are coming into bloom may have similar treatment. Bouvardias now flowering will thrive in the same house. Fancy Pelargoniums for early flowering should receive their final removal. Till established in the fresh pots water should be sparingly given. Keep a sharp look-out for green-fly, and destroy it on its first appearance.

Pits And Frames.

Bulbs and other plants for forcing should now be potted, including such as Tulips, Hyacinths, Gladiolus (The Bride), Spircea japonica, Lily of the Valley, Solomon's Seal, Iilium Har-risii, Narcissus, &c. They should be put into pots of various sizes according to the object for which they are intended. If for cutting, several bulbs may be put into larger pots, but if for the adornment of the conservatory or rooms, then the smaller the pots the better. When potted, all but the latter should be covered with ashes, and these should be placed in a cold frame with Freesias, Alliums, Crocosmos, Scillas, &c. Air should be freely admitted on all favourable occasions to half-hardy plants in cold frames, in order that they may be inured to the weather as far as possible. Pot on herbaceous Calceolarias, Cinerarias, Schizanthus, Cyclamens, &c, as they require it. Insert cuttings of shrubby Calceolarias, Pentstemons, Hollyhocks, and other plants that need the protection of cold frames. Violets for winter flowering should be put in frames if not there already, and any plants which require protection from frost should receive attention without delay.

Flower-Garden And Pleasure Ground.

This is one of the busiest months of the whole year, and much depends on the work done during it. Take up and protect from frost any plants that will not withstand the winter, such as Dahlias, Cannas, Fuchsias, Lobelias, Pelargoniums, &c. The beds should also be cleared of all summer bedding plants, and, after being edged and dug, planted with dwarf shrubs, Violas, Wallflowers, Myosotis, Silene, Alyssums, and the like, such plants making a fine display in early spring. When these have been planted, bulbs of various kinds may be dibbled in amongst them, as the flowers of these will stand well up above the carpet beneath. Seed of hardy annuals may also be sown early in the month, for if the winter should prove mild they will bloom before those sown in spring. Lawns should be mown where the grass has a tendency to grow, so that the leaves may be the more easily cleared off. Where alterations are proposed in the ground, or any planting is to be done, the work should be carried out as early as practicable. Trees planted while there is sufficient warmth in the soil to induce quick root action will succeed far better than if the process is deferred till later in the season. There are many evergreen shrubs which do far better when planted in autumn than in spring, therefore no time should be lost in completing the work. Plant deciduous trees as soon as their foliage is matured. Herbaceous borders should be looked over, and where weak plants are overcrowded by stronger ones, the former should be removed to a situation in which they can have more room to develop.

Take up shrubs for forcing and "lay them in", so that they may be potted on the first favourable opportunity. Any plants covering walls, buildings, &c, which require nailing, should at once receive attention to prevent them being broken by high winds.